It's deer season. And you've got your hopes and dreams set on a big mature buck. Maybe you've already seen the deer. Maybe it's only come to you in your dreams. Regardless, it's gonna take a little luck, work and know-how to make it a reality. Here's much of what you need to know to make it all happen.
The flip side of this is when hunters start hitting the woods. Everything changes once those mature deer catch wind (pun intended) of hunters. They relocate to bedding areas that provide better security and sanctuary. They move less during daylight. And the game gets that much harder.
What was interesting about this particular buck is that I hunted thru the sections and was almost out of sections when I got to one section I never would have hunted if I had not grid sectioned that parcel. This area was mature hardwoods with very little cover and very little deer sign. But it was an unhunted section and I was sticking with the plan to the end. About 30 minutes before closing time, a noise and some movement caught my eye. A nice buck came out of a small brush patch surrounding a fallen tree. It was him and he came right to me where I arrowed him.
Most hunters just hunt the sign or the food and go to the same areas over and over while the mature bucks are living in overlooked spots. Grid patterning forces you to hunt those spots you would otherwise overlook. If you take a 100-acre farm and break it into 10 sections, you can hunt that down in 10 hunts (five hunts with two people). No buck is completely nocturnal and if you force yourself to get into its daylight movement area, you should get your shot; or at least make a small adjustment and get your shot within a manageable time frame.
Rattling and grunting can lure bucks from September through January. But there's no doubt that the tactics work best during the breeding season, and especially during the two-week scraping phase that I call the \"hard pre-rut.\" A sexually frustrated buck on the prowl for the first hot doe of the year is stoked to come to your grunts or mock fights.
Finally, calling can work anywhere in North America, from Alberta to Virginia to Georgia. But again there's a caveat. Rattling and grunting work best on private, tightly posted and intensively managed lands where the buck-to-doe ratio is near 1:1. On such a place the rut is short and intense, and there is keen competition among mature bucks for the sexual favors of the relatively few does. But most of us hunt places where the sex ratio of whitetails is not so balanced, where fewer mature bucks live per square mile and where the hunting pressure is less controlled. Still, hang in there and keep rattling and grunting until you strike a big deer pumped to respond.
The Tick and Grind: During archery season in late September or early October, spar to mimic a couple of subdominant bucks jousting with their antlers and feeling each other out in the social order. Tick and grind a set of horns (or work a rattle bag or box) for 60 seconds or even up to three minutes. A live sparring match (not an all-out fight) between bucks sometimes lasts that long. In many areas sparring is more effective than hard rattling because it appeals to 1 1/2- to 2 1/2-year-old bucks, the ones most likely to come in and gawk at your calls. But the tick and grind can lure alpha bucks as well. A stud deer might shudder at the thought of two subordinates roughhousing. If it runs in to show who's the man, you might get a shot.
Stick Tight to a Barrier: I've saved the best for last. Whenever possible, put some type of terrain barrier 50 yards or so behind your treestand or ground blind. Some examples: a thick windrow, a deep river, a steep bluff or a fenced pasture. We've mentioned several times that mature bucks like to circle downwind to get a whiff of fighting or grunting deer. But if you can block a circling buck with a barrier, you force him to approach your calls from the side or out front where it can't wind you and spook.
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Richard H. Parks died of bile duct cancer in December 2013. He was 51 and the illness had quickly progressed from depleting to debilitating, leaving farm management almost exclusively to his son, the oldest of his three children.
At 20 I graduated with a 2:1 BSc in Human Biology from a top 50 Uni, then achieved a Merit MRes in Functional Genomics from a top 10 Uni. I pretty much went straight into industry working on lentiviral vectors for gene therapy treatments; however, after three months I was running low on money, having a pretty hard time at home and this all affected my work so left the company after 3 months.
I'm definitely applying for it but wanted to understand how an application from a 27 year old with this history might be received. Essentially - what positives and negatives can you see from a mature application
I feel like I have a good chance. I've got (old) experience in a related field; I'm more mature than a freshly graduated student; I have a lot of skill useful for promoting the groups work and teaching classes; and I'm used to working long hours in a results driven environment, dealing with rejection but making things happen - especially racking through large amounts of work based on personal plans and goals. This is all in a legitimate way rather than a lip-service way.
I can't speak for any PhD program other than my own, but can I just say that I have a really hard time thinking of 27 as 'mature' FWIW, I didn't even get a BS until my mid-30s, and spent enough years in industry to become financially independent before pursuing a PhD. Had no problems whatsoever* getting into the program.
My 3-year-old started climbing out of his crib about a year ago. I was not ready for him to move into a big bed yet so I encouraged him to stay in his crib. I may have bribed him some nights with a sticker chart and promises of toys at Target. It took a week or two but eventually he got back used to sleeping in the crib and we managed to avoid transitioning into a big kid bed until I felt like he was a bit more mature. Now that he is 3, potty trained, a decent sleeper, and pretty good at following directions, I think this is the perfect time to transition him into a big kid bed. If your child is sleeping happily in a crib and not complaining I would keep things status quo for awhile.
Sometimes you just don't get to wait until your child is mature enough. When my daughter was two she started climbing out of her crib. I tried to encourage her to wait, but she wanted to get out of there! She was so little when we moved her and had the hardest time staying in her bed and sleeping. Sometimes I would wake up at 3am to find her wide awake playing in her room. It took a good 4-5 months for her to finally get into a good routine and stay in bed and sleep through the night.
One of our biggest mistakes with my daughter was going from a crib to a toddler bed and not really thinking much about the cozy factor. The toddler bed used a